6 Reasons Why Men's Fashion Is So Good Right Now
If you’ve been feeling like womenswear is a bit mid lately it's coz menswear is carrying everything.
At the time of writing this, we’re at the tail end of the men’s fashion shows in Paris and Berlin is just around the corner. Maybe it’s due to the timely wave of social posts or just my general fatigue with women’s fashion and trends, but the menswear shows have really got me going. Here are my hot takes on why menswear is killing it right now.
Disclaimer for this post: There’s not a lot of men’s fashion knowledge in the Marci-Smith household. Despite my years in the industry, I’ve never actually worked with menswear categories. Joel’s style is probably best described as Dadcore, so all design brilliance is lost on him but I asked for his opinions anyway. So don’t expect lots of deep stuff here. It will be a lot of this:
1. The Hottest Designers Are Women
When I think about the designers that are redefining menswear, several of them are women creating either dedicated collections or genderless products. Two British designers who are snatching headlines in this category are Martine Rose and Grace Wales Bonner.
Beyond the prosthetic noses designed to subvert beauty standards, Martine Rose’s SS25 show blended the designer’s signature sports motifs with elements of workwear and kink. Striped football jerseys and socks were showcased against floor-grazing technical and corduroy coats alongside leather, latex and liquid-like fabrics.
My favorite Wales Bonner moments included classic blazers paired with board shorts and ballet flats, as well as oversized leather bowling bags and fishnet bodysuits peeking out from under bespoke tailoring. Another standout female designer, Marine Serre presented a masterclass in upcycling by repurposing denim, bed linens, tablecloths, doilies, tartan scarves and hiking bags into couture.
“Oh, I hate this” (on Martine Rose). “That’s a nice coat…just…too many bits” (on Marine Serre) - Joel
2. Rodent Boys Are Rightful Fashion Icons
If you’re chronically online, you may have seen discourse surrounding the Hot Rodent Boyfriend doing the rounds. While I may appear hypocritical after writing about my disdain for the TikTok “bunny, fox, deer or cat pretty” trend for women, I’m more than happy to associate men with animals. Mike Faist’s little Loewe radish brooch at the Met Gala is a perfect example of rodent men doing good fashion.
When Joel has asked how I think he should dress, Jeremy Allen White buying flowers at the farmer’s market is usually my go-to. And while I think all polo shirts can get in the bin, I have no qualms about Jez’s Giuliva Heritage knit. Sexy rat man summer is upon us!
Another boy dominating this category is Timmy with his Bob Dylan era poised to make up for whatever the fuck possessed him to do Wonka. Look at him! If you’ve been thinking about purchasing a brown suede trucker jacket, the time is now.
“Ah, I’ve always said these jackets are good” - Joel
3. The Boys Are Being Slutty
In April, GQ wrote Why Men Can't Stop Wearing Slutty Short Shorts and honestly, I’m here for it. Paul Mescal has emerged as the poster boy for this trend, further fueled by his Gucci SS25 look spawning the meme that this is the outfit all the girlies will be wearing for summer. Meanwhile, SSENSE, whose social media team deserves a big fat raise, has poked fun at men’s shrinking inseams.
Slutty menswear was notable in SS25 collections. The creator of the piss jeans, JORDANLUCA, showcased halter bodysuits and skintight leather jackets alongside its signature cheeky wank pocket trousers. Prada paired shrunken knitwear with ultra-low rises and DSQUARED2 went all in on fetishwear, with harnesses under sheer shirts and suiting.
“These shorts are too short. I’m a jorts man” - Joel
4. Anything Jonathan Anderson Touches Turns To Gold
Just when you thought Jonathan Anderson couldn’t get any more viral after the creation of the pigeon clutch, the frog wellies and the pixelated hoodie. His SS25 collections for JW Anderson and Loewe are nothing short of clickbait-worthy. We’ve already mentioned the beauty of the memefied tomato clutch.
Now we’ve got pearl-embossed Guinness sweaters, loafer bags, frilled leather jackets and playful surrealist knitwear representing houses and honeycomb for his eponymous line. And don’t get me started on that Loewe feather-inspired coat. Swoon.
“Now we’re talking!” (on the Guinness Jumper). “Why is he wearing a waffle? *chortle*” (on the yellow knit) - Joel
5. Rick Owens Did This
Look, it’s a missed opportunity if Rick Owens doesn’t do the costumes for the next Dune film.
“Ha, this is bandages. Just different kinds of bandages” - Joel
6. The Prints Are Printing
The great thing about the current state of menswear is it’s not taking itself too seriously - it’s being playful and fun in addition to super slutty! Dries Van Noten went out with a bang for his final show, using Suminagashi (floating ink) to create large-scale floral graphics. KidSuper always nails patterns with its signature face motifs splashed across bomber jackets and spliced checkered shirts.
Though Moschino won’t ever be the same without Jeremy Scott and the collection was a bit of an eyesore, I can get on board with the smiley faces and the silly geese graphics, even though they did get lost against the pizzas, bananas, eggs, airplanes and tomato motifs. Mate, pick a lane.
“Look, these are fun prints. I’d never wear them” - Joel